What’s in this article
Lake Braies has become the undisputed star of the Dolomites.
There’s no denying it, everyone agrees it is the most beautiful of all. Those emerald green waters? Breathtaking!
And all that unspoilt nature all around?
A true paradise that attracts people from all corners of the globe.
Getting to the lake is easy, but I confess that in recent years it has become a bit of a mess because of overtourism.
They’ve had to put a lot of restrictions at the busiest times.
It’s such a special place that it deserves to be protected from the hordes of tourists who often only go there for the classic selfie and then off they go.
I have been there several times, even out of season when there are fewer people.
It allowed me to get to know this jewel from up close and discover all its little secrets.
An experience I would recommend to anyone!
Where is Lake Braies?
The lake is located in South Tyrol (Alto Adige.)
Whenever I think of this area, I think of landscapes that seem straight out of a postcard.
Lake Braies is located right here, in the province of Bolzano, and is the largest natural lake in the area, lying at an altitude of 1496 metres in the heart of the Fanes-Sennes-Braies nature park.
I like to think of Lake Braies as the gentle giant of the Dolomites, even though it is not huge, it has its charms, with a maximum depth of 34 metres and a shoreline that stretches for about 3.5 km.
One thing that always strikes me is the way the surrounding mountains embrace it, almost protecting it.
The Croda del Becco towers 2809 metres, like a silent guardian watching over the waters.
In summer the surrounding meadows explode with colours and scents, with tall grass and flowers dotting the landscape like an impressionist painting.
Lake Braies strategic position
One thing I have learnt from travelling is that location counts, and Lake Braies is really in a strategic spot.
It is only 21 km from San Candido and 28 km from Brunico.
If I can give you some honest advice: find accommodation nearby.
I made the mistake of seeing it “in a hurry” the first time, and I bitterly regretted it.
It deserves to be experienced slowly, breathing in the atmosphere.
The waters of the lake have a colour that I would describe as… hypnotic.
A green-blue so intense that the first time I thought it had been retouched in the photos.
And then, depending on the season, it changes its face completely.
In winter it turns into an icy expanse, with snow enveloping everything in an almost sacred silence.
Ah, an interesting detail, when you are there, you will hear mostly German being spoken.
In fact, the name you will see most often is “Pragser Wildsee”, which is the name of the lake in German.
This is because the locals speak both Italian and German, being almost on the border with Austria.
It took me a while to learn to pronounce it correctly, I admit!
How to get to Lake Braies
There are several options, and honestly, some are much better than others, especially during the high season when it seems that half of Europe has decided to visit at the same time.
Getting to Lake Braies by car (when possible)
If you really want to go by car (and I understand, convenience has its charm), you’ll need to take State Road 49 of the Pusteria Valley. Whether you’re coming from Brunico or San Candido, you’ll find a small roundabout with signs for the lake.
From there, it’s a simple uphill road in both directions that takes you straight to paradise in about 10 minutes.
But here’s the crucial point that I wish I had known in advance: during peak season times you can’t simply show up with your car.
You must book parking online (from July 10, to September 10, 2025), pay in advance with PayPal or credit card, and only with this reservation can you access the road.
The first time I learned this lesson the hard way, arriving at 11 in the morning in mid-August.
Needless to say, I returned with my tail between my legs and a slight sense of frustration.
The alternatives (often better)
In low season or outside restriction hours (between 9.30 AM and 4.00 PM,) the situation changes completely.
You can arrive by car without problems, find parking, and enjoy the lake with (relatively) fewer crowds.
But you know what?
My best experiences at Lake Braies were those when I left the car far away and got there by bus or even by bicycle.
Getting to Lake Braies by Bus (Or How To Learn To Plan Ahead)
If you want to make the wisest choice, the bus is your best friend.
They depart from Monguelfo (line 439) or from Dobbiaco (line 442), with two rides every hour during summer.
In half an hour you’re at the lake, without the stress of looking for parking or the guilt of contributing to pollution.
But here’s the crucial detail that I learned the hard way: from July 10 to September 10, you must book and pay in advance.
It’s not advice, it’s practically mandatory, unless you like the idea of being left stranded while everyone else enjoys the emerald waters of the lake.
You can find all information about schedules and reservations on prags.bz, save it to your favorites, trust me.
Getting to Lake Braies on Foot or by Bike (For Those Who Want To Earn The View)
If you want, you can also reach the lake on foot.
In this case, starting from Villabassa station, follow path no. 1 to Ferrara-Prags and then straight to the lake.
It’s 5.6 km with an elevation gain that makes you understand why locals’ calves seem sculpted in marble.
The walk takes about 3 hours and, yes, it’s uphill, but it’s accessible to everyone.
A little trick I discovered after (obviously, because I always learn too late): you can cheat a bit by arriving by car to Ferrara-Prags and then continue on foot on path no.1.
This way it only takes an hour and a half, and you can always tell your friends on social media that you did the whole route on foot, I’m not judging, I’ve done it too.
From Monguelfo instead you need to take path no.2 to Ferrara-Prags and then no.1.
The Bike Option (For The Brave)
With a bicycle you can reach Ferrara-Prags on the bike path, then continue on Provincial Road 47.
A small warning: you cannot go around the lake by bike.
I did the uphill bike ride last summer and, between one labored breath and another, I wondered why I hadn’t chosen the bus.
But when I arrived, sweaty and with trembling legs, I understood that the effort was part of the experience.
There’s something magical about earning such a spectacular view.
When to Visit Lake Braies: Secrets I Learned the Hard Way
The first time I planned a visit to Lake Braies, I made the classic tourist mistake: I chose August.
As if it wasn’t already the period when half of Europe decides to pack their bags and leave simultaneously.
As a result, I spent more time dodging selfie sticks than admiring the view.
Lake Braies has this magical power, it’s splendid in any season you decide to visit.
It’s like that photogenic friend who doesn’t have a bad side, just different versions of their beauty.
Lake Braies in Winter
In winter it’s like a Monet painting in white and blue.
I saw it completely frozen one February, with snow falling silently and the few visitors walking carefully on the surface, like explorers on another planet.
There was an almost sacred silence that I’ll never forget.
Lake Braies in Autumn (Fall)
Autumn transforms the shores into a palette of yellows and oranges reflected on the water.
I took a photo in October that looked retouched, yet it was exactly like that, with that golden light that seemed to paint everything.
Lake Braies in Spring and Summer
But yes, spring and summer are when the lake shows its best dress. That emerald green that seems almost unnatural, as if someone had secretly poured dye into the water during the night.
Here’s my impartial advice: aim for early June.
Sure, it might rain (I was lucky with three days of splendid sunshine, but the fourth was a biblical deluge), and yes, the mornings are offensively chilly when you leave the hotel still sleepy.
But believe me when I say that feeling of having the lake almost to yourself is worth every shiver.
In June, the lake is still full, swollen with water that reflects everything like a perfect mirror.
In July and August, it starts to recede a bit, as if it too wanted to distance itself from mass tourism.
And let’s talk about timing, because here lies the real secret.
I discovered during my third trip, that arriving before 9 in the morning is like having a VIP invitation.
The morning light caressing the mountains, the more intense colours… and above all, I could take photos without strangers suddenly deciding to do yoga right in front of my frame.
I also tried the evening hours, after 5 PM, when most visitors have already left.
It’s beautiful, don’t get me wrong, but the colours aren’t the same.
The emerald green becomes darker, more introspective.
Beautiful in its own way, but different.
Like when you remove your makeup after an elegant evening, still you, but in a more intimate version.
Whatever period you choose, avoid weekends like you would avoid wearing wet jeans.
Unless you love hearing multiple languages talking simultaneously about the best spot for a selfie.
What to Do at Lake Braies? Much More Than Taking Photos!
The first time I arrived at Lake Braies, I had planned to stay only for about a couple of hours. “I’ll go around the lake and go,” I told myself. Three hours later, I was still there, sitting on a rock staring at the water as if in a trance, even forgetting about lunch (and those who know me know how rare an event that is).
There’s something hypnotic about that emerald green that captures you.
You could literally sit on the shore and watch the lake for hours.
It’s not an exaggeration, it’s exactly what I did.
There’s a peace that enters you, as if time slowed down purposely to let you enjoy that moment.
The Rowing Boats (or How I Discovered I Wasn’t Born to Be a Gondolier)
If you’re like me and can’t stay still for too long, renting a rowing boat is the experience to have.
Sure, it looks romantic in photos, my husband and I rowing gently in the crystal-clear waters.
The reality was that he was rowing in one direction, me in the other, and the boat was spinning on itself like in a 1920s comedy.
A tip I learned the hard way: in high season there’s a waiting list that can seem endless.
The first time we waited almost two hours!
Now I know the right move is to go straight to the stilt house as soon as you arrive.
Put your name on the list and then go do something else.
The price: On the “Shared Boat Ride Experience” you share your boat with 4 other people for 45 minutes, and it cost €15;
with the “Private boat ride experience” you’ll have the boat just for you (up to 5 people) and it costs €50 for 45 minutes. Find detailed info here.
It’s worth every cent, just for the photos you’ll take (and for the laughs, if you row like me).
Walking Around the Lake (Which Is Not “a Stroll”)
When they told me “let’s walk around the lake,” I thought: “Sure, a nice walk.”
Spoiler: my calves hated me for two days afterward.
The route is 3.5 km and takes about an hour and a half.
It seems little on paper, but there are elevation changes and steps that make you understand why South Tyrol inhabitants all have that sculpted physique.
The walk is suitable for everyone, if “everyone” excludes those with serious mobility issues or those pushing a stroller.
I saw a couple attempting the feat with a twin stroller.
I met them again halfway, him carrying the stroller on his shoulders like a sherpa, her carrying the children. Lesson learned.
But those views…
At every bend in the path, the lake shows itself from a different perspective.
I took so many photos that I exhausted my phone’s memory before completing the circuit.
The Little Church (Small but with Character)
There’s also a small church on the shores of the lake, built in 1904.
It belongs to the Lake Braies hotel and was commissioned by the Hellensteiner family shortly after the hotel’s construction.
It’s tiny, almost dollhouse-like, but has an undeniable charm.
I entered almost by chance and found an unexpected moment of contemplation in the middle of a hectic day.
Swimming in Lake Braies is Forbidden (and Why Sometimes Rules Are a Blessing)
And if you were to feel like taking a dip in those emerald green waters, you’ll have to make do with just wetting your feet (which I did, shivering as if I were at the North Pole).
Swimming is prohibited, and after putting a finger in the water, I understood why nobody protests too much about this rule.
Even in the height of summer, the water is so icy that it makes you reconsider all your life choices.
Where to Eat at Lake Braies: Confessions of a Foodie in the Dolomites
I have a complicated relationship with food when traveling.
On one hand, I want the authentic experience, the local dish, the restaurant with a view.
On the other hand, my practical soul often suggests simpler alternatives.
At Lake Braies, I tried all available options, some by choice, others by necessity.
Let me tell you how it went.
The Lake Braies Hotel Restaurant
The Lake Braies Hotel restaurant is the only “serious” option in the area, with an indoor dining room with large windows and an outdoor terrace that offers a view that would make even an expired cheese sandwich special.
Not that they serve poor quality food, quite the opposite!
When I finally managed to eat there (with a reservation made two weeks in advance), I understood why everyone wants a table.
If you’re planning your trip and want this experience, make a reservation.
Not “maybe I should book,” but BOOK.
Especially on weekends and in high season, finding a free table is more difficult than spotting a unicorn in the Dolomites.
The Bar Before the Lake (salvation for hungry stomachs)
If you don’t have a restaurant reservation there’s the bar located before accessing the lake.
It’s your gastronomic lifesaver.
They serve sandwiches, dishes with sausages and potatoes (which after a three-hour walk seem like a meal worthy of a starred chef), desserts, and drinks.
It’s not haute cuisine, but when you’re hungry after walking around the lake, even a simple sandwich can seem like a royal feast.
The Strategic Picnic (my favorite option)
The next times I went to the lake, I was already experienced.
I knew I wanted to enjoy the panorama calmly, without the stress of “I-must-find-a-table.”
So I prepared a picnic.
Near the little church, there’s a small meadow that seems made for spreading a blanket and enjoying an outdoor lunch.
I brought local cheese, speck, fresh bread bought in Dobbiaco that morning, and a bottle of South Tyrolean wine (with a screw cap, because forgetting the corkscrew is a tradition for me almost as much as forgetting sunscreen).
It was perhaps the simplest gastronomic experience of my visits, but undoubtedly the most memorable.
There’s something special about eating surrounded by that beauty, without hurry, without waiters, just you and the nature that surrounds you.
A practical tip: bring a bag for trash.
There’s nothing worse than enjoying such a magical place and then leaving it worse than you found it.
Where to Stay at Lake Braies: Confessions of an Indecisive Traveler
I have a flaw when traveling: I’m pathologically indecisive about choosing accommodation.
I spend hours comparing reviews and studying maps as if I were planning a military operation.
But at Lake Braies, after trying different options, I can tell you that some choices are definitely better than others.
Hotel Lago di Braies: When Luxury is Worth Every Cent
On our second visit to Lake Braies I booked at Hotel Lago di Braies, my husband nearly had a heart attack looking at the price.
This historic hotel from 1899 is the only one directly overlooking the lake, and waking up to that view… well, there are no adequate words.
The rooms have that old-world charm that you can’t replicate with modern design.
Wooden furniture that tells stories, nothing luxurious in the contemporary sense, don’t expect hot tubs or plasma TVs, but an authentic elegance that makes you feel part of history.
And the best part is being at the lake when all other visitors are still in their hotel rooms miles away.
I had breakfast on the terrace watching the morning mist slowly dissolve over the water, a privilege that no crowd of day-trippers will ever experience.
Gstattlhof: For Those With More Sense Than Money
After the experience at Hotel Lago di Braies, my bank account needed a break.
On my next visit, I opted for Gstattlhof, and surprise: it was a completely different but equally memorable experience.
The apartments are spacious even if, let’s face it, the decor won’t win design awards.
But who cares when you’re only a 15-minute walk from the lake?
This was the real revelation: being able to reach the lake on foot, without parking stress or shuttles.
I would wake up early, prepare coffee in the small kitchen, and then walk peacefully to the lake while the rest of the world was still asleep.
A different luxury, but equally precious.
Apartments Oberhollenzer: When You Want It All
If you’re looking for a compromise between comfort and price, the Waidacherhof Apartments are the answer.
The mix of rustic and modern will win you over.
Ancient wooden beams and contemporary furnishings that seem to say “we can coexist peacefully.”
The Truth About Where to Stay
After all my experiences, here’s the naked truth: there is no perfect choice, only the right one for you at that moment.
If you can afford a night at Hotel Lago di Braies, even just one, give yourself this gift.
It won’t be cheap, but it will be one of those memories you’ll carry with you when you’re old and telling stories to your grandchildren.
If you’re traveling on a limited budget, Gstattlhof will give you exactly what you need without making you feel like you’re giving up the experience.
And remember that nearby towns, Valdaora, Monguelfo, Villabassa, Dobbiaco, and San Candido, offer many alternatives.
You may not wake up looking at the lake, but a short trip by car or bus will still take you there.
What to Do in the Surroundings of Lake Braies: Hidden Treasures I Discovered by Chance!
When I first arrived at Lake Braies, I thought the lake was the only attraction in the area.
Big, huge mistake!
There are plenty of fantastic places nearby that absolutely deserve a visit.
Prato Piazza: My Secret Spot (Which Is No Longer So Secret)
Following the provincial road of Val Pusteria toward Lake Braies, at some point you find yourself facing a fork in the road. If you take the left road, you arrive at Prato Piazza, which is a natural terrace at 2000 meters altitude, UNESCO heritage and all the rest.
But forget the labels, when you’re there, with that incredible view of the Dolomites, you feel like you’ve ended up in a fantasy film.
The first time I was literally open-mouthed, with my phone in hand taking photos like crazy, even though I knew perfectly well that no photo would ever do justice to what I was seeing.
San Candido: A Little Gem 25 Minutes from Lake Braies
The first time I arrived in San Candido was almost by chance.
After an intense morning at Lake Braies, I was looking for a quiet place to have lunch and spend the afternoon.
I didn’t have high expectations, but this small village conquered me in an instant!
Just 25 minutes by car from the lake, San Candido is one of those towns that seem to have come out of a fairy tale.
It has just over 3000 inhabitants, most German-speaking (and you can tell when asking for directions, my rusty German made embarrassing figures more than once!).
What struck me as soon as I arrived were those typical Südtirol houses with white or pastel-coloured walls.
And the carved wooden balconies that look like lace, sloping roofs perfect for winter snow, and those doors and windows painted red or other bright colours that make you want to photograph every corner.
I remember being amazed to see bicycles leaning against walls without chain or lock.
This immediately made me understand what kind of place it was.
The town isn’t big, you can tour it in a short time, but it’s a real pleasure to get lost among its narrow streets.
There are small shops selling typical products where I stocked up on speck and local cheeses, bars with outdoor tables where you can sit and watch life slowly passing by, and several places where you can rent bicycles to explore the surroundings.
It’s absolutely worth visiting the Collegiate Church of Saints Candidus and Corbinian with the adjoining monastic complex.
It’s a Romanesque-style building that makes you take a step back in time.
San Candido is one of those places that makes you slow down, breathe deeply, and think “this is how one should live.”
After an intense day at Lake Braies, with all the tourists and selfie sticks, this small town was a balm for the soul.
And the cakes in the local cafes? A balm for the stomach!
Alpe Pragas Shop: Where I Left Half My Salary
Ok, now let’s talk about serious stuff: food!
A few minutes from the lake there’s this shop, the Alpe Pragas Shop, which sells the best jams I’ve ever tasted in my life.
I’m not exaggerating!
The production is right in Braies di Fuori, so it couldn’t be more local. The first time I went in out of curiosity and came out with a bag full of jars.
The raspberry jam? Finger-licking good!
And they have lots of other things: compotes, syrups, mustards, fruit in syrup, smoothies…
The best part is that they use top-quality fruit and are super attentive to sustainability.
So you can gorge yourself with a clear conscience!
If you pass by there, drop into Alpe Pragas. But bring some extra space in your suitcase, trust me!
Other Lakes Near Braies: My Hidden Treasures
The first time I visited Lake Braies, I was so impressed that I thought: “No other lake could ever be this beautiful.”
Yet, in my subsequent trips to this enchanted area, I discovered that there are other bodies of water that, although less famous, have a charm all their own.
Lake Dobbiaco: The Quiet Brother
A short distance from Braies is Lake Dobbiaco, an oasis of peace that I discovered almost by chance during an afternoon when I was trying to escape the crowds.
Compared to its famous neighbor, it’s definitely quieter and less crowded, a real relief after the “sardines in a can” experience that you sometimes have at Braies during high season.
The waters here are equally incredible, that emerald green that seems almost unreal.
One of the most relaxing experiences I’ve had was renting a pedal boat and slowly navigating the calm waters, while swans and ducks watched me with a mixture of curiosity and indifference.
There’s something profoundly meditative about gently pedaling on the water, surrounded by mountains that reflect on the surface like in a perfect mirror.
On the shore of the lake stands the Hotel Baur al Lago, which proved to be an excellent accommodation alternative when all the facilities near Braies were fully booked.
It doesn’t have the historic charm of the Hotel Lago di Braies, but the view upon waking more than makes up for it.
The Venetian Lakes: Misurina and Antorno
If you’re willing to cross regional borders and enter Veneto, two gems await you that literally took my breath away: Lake Misurina and Lake Antorno.
Lake Misurina is what I would call “dramatically beautiful”, the Three Peaks of Lavaredo standing in the background create a landscape that seems painted.
I remember sitting on the shore for almost an hour, simply watching the landscape change with the passing clouds.
No photos, no phone, just me and that view impossible to truly capture in an image.
Lake Antorno is smaller and more intimate, almost cozy.
It was my absolute favorite, perhaps because I discovered it almost by chance, deviating slightly from the main route.
There were few people and an almost reverential silence that invited whispering instead of speaking loudly.
A Trip to Lienz: Austria Just Around the Corner
During our stay near Lake Braies, one rainy afternoon we looked at each other and said: “Why don’t we go abroad today?”
As if it were the most normal thing in the world.
And indeed it was, because Austria is literally just around the corner!
We took a trip to Lienz, this small Austrian town located just a few kilometers from the Italian border, with cobblestone streets and colourful little houses.
For bike lovers, there’s a fantastic bike path that connects San Candido to Lienz. It’s 44 km, but don’t be scared by the number! It’s a predominantly downhill route, so easily navigable even if you’re not an expert cyclist.
The best part is that for the return journey you can take the train, which is equipped to transport bicycles. Perfect organization in Austrian style! If you don’t have a bike with you, there are various rental shops in San Candido, so there’s no excuse not to try it.
Lake Braies: Let’s Be Careful How We Visit!
To conclude this guide, I couldn’t help but recommend visiting Lake Braies respectfully.
This lake has become super famous in recent years!
First thanks to the TV series “Un Passo dal Cielo” and then because it has practically been overun by Instagrammers, who rush in large numbers just to take the perfect photo, or even worse for us, shoot the perfect Reel to share on Instagram. (In the latter case, they become annoying as they expect you to stop and wait for them to finish filming.)
The result is an invasion of tourists!
It’s become so crowded that they had to put a limit on the number of people who can visit it each day, otherwise goodbye to pristine nature.
If you’re planning to stop by, I beg you: treat it like a precious treasure. To really help, try to go in the off-season, when there are fewer people. And if you can, leave the car at home!
Better to use public transport or, if you must drive, choose a hybrid or eco-friendly vehicle.
Whenever you decide to visit, remember the golden rule: behave as if you were never there.
No waste, no damage to nature.
As they say: “Leave no trace, take only photographs!”
Ciao and Happy travels!
