What’s in this article
Ciao bella gente! (Hello, beautiful people!)
Today I am here to take you to one of my most unknown, but still so very delicious spots, in the Dolomites – San Candido, or in German – Innichen.
Believe me, if you are thinking about a summer holiday or if a winter sports station is more of your liking, this cozy little town has it all!
Imagine that you walk around a perfectly picturesque Alpine town with the amazing Dolomites in the background.
This is San Candido for you!
Why I love San Candido Italy
Located at the very heart of Val Pusteria (or Pustertal as it is called in Germanᅳwe do love our bilingual names,) it’s a small patch of heaven that I never get tired of.
You wonder why San Candido is like this? What can I say first?
The town center is paramount.
Where houses seem to be painted pastel, with each house possessing balconies spilling with blooming plants.
The shops are bellissimi (beautiful)!
I find myself standing at the window every time, although I have been here a hundred times already.
But the best of all the gazes is from Mount Baranci (Haunold in German).
It is absolutely gorgeous!
Even after seeing all these beautiful mountain peaks, I do not get bored looking up.
For those who love the past, the churches here are of great interest because of their beautiful architecture.
I’ll let you now a little secret: San Candido is perfect for relaxation and adventure.
It is a skier’s paradise in winter.
I remember my first time skiing here – the crisp mountain air.
The powdery snow under my skis… Pure magic!
And in summer?
The hiking route is calling your name.
There is nothing better than having a picnic with the Dolomites as a backdrop!
What I love most about San Candido is its focus on families
I saw many happy children playing in the square.
Their laughter echoed throughout the mountain.
It is a place to remember, believe me.
And here’s the icing on the cake: San Candido is ideally located for exploring other parts of the Dolomites.
It is like a convenient base for an epic adventure.
I have used it as a starting point for countless trips and it has never let me down.
Are you ready to experience the magic of San Candido?
Whether you dream of snow-capped peaks or sun-drenched landscape, this town has stolen my heart.
And I know it will do so with you too.
Follow these additional tips on how to get the most out of your visit.

Where is San Candido Italy
Wondering where this gem is hiding?
San Candido lies in the picturebook valley of Val Pusteria on the route Bolzano-Austria border.
The life of hanging between Italy and Austria, playing peek-a-boo, and getting the best of both worlds!
How to get to San Candido
If you are getting here from Bolzano, which is highly recommended, it takes 1 hour and 45 minutes to drive.
It is a very scenic drive, which will evoke “oohs” and “aahs” throughout the ride.
In fact, if you are interested in a short trip to Austria, the city of Lienz is just 41 minutes drive from the town.
I have crossed that road more often than I can bear; I have driven it in one way or another.
Normally when I feel like having an Austrian strudel!
Now, if you’re more of a train person (and let’s face it, Italian trains can be an adventure in themselves), you’re in luck.
San Candido has a wonderful tiny railway station where it is possible to get not only to Bolzano but also to Austria.
It’s ideal if you do not want to drive through the incredible mountain scenery yourself while watching them.
And for my budget-savvy travelers, there are also local buses to consider.
They’re a great way to rub shoulders with the locals and maybe practice your Italian (or German – remember, we’re bilingual here!)
But here’s a little tip: if you’re visiting in the summer, I’d really recommend coming by car.
Of course, the public transport here is very good, but nothing compares to having your own car and being able to ride around the Dolomites and find all the nooks and crannies.
Seriously, there are some areas you might want to consider visiting!
Why San Candido Italy is a must-see destination
Now I will explain why San Candido is a must-see destination.
Oh, mamma mia, (my goodness,) there is so much to love!
First of all, it is like being in a fairytale.
The town itself is beautiful and makes you want to sing.
Think Heidi meets la dolce vita (the sweet life): it’s a vibe that makes young and old fall head over heels for.
And then there is the culture.
San Candido is an all-Italian place, but with an Austrian flair; it is a very special place.
From sipping an espresso to munching on a strudel, it is a feast for all the senses.
And the architecture?
Tyrol-style houses and outlets are so adorable, you will want to ramble through them, as if you are in a picture postcard.
I don’t know how many times I get to the middle of a street gazing at the beautiful houses or beautiful shops.
To my winter sports lovers, San Candido is a winter wonderland.
The slopes are ideal for families, and if you fancy cross-country skiing, then you will be in for a lovely time.
I recall the time I took my children skiing here – actually, there was more time spent making snowballs than skiing, but isn’t that what it’s all about?
And summer?
Oh boy, the hiking here is out of this world.
Whether you are an extreme hiker or someone who likes to take things easy like my nonna, there is something for everyone.
The views? They’ll leave you speechless.
Things to do in San Candido
Let’s now take a look at the must-do things in San Candido (or Innichen, for my German-speaking friends)!
Trust me, this enchanting gem of the Dolomites is full of delightful experiences that will make your heart beat faster!
Explore the centre of San Candido
Our experience in San Candido begins in the old town centre, the centre that will make you smile!
Imagine two beautiful squares, facing each other, with different characters but both with the magical feel of the Tyrol.
Strolling through these stone-paved streets, be prepared to encounter the gigantic Rathaus, which translates into town hall;
the extremely friendly and informative tourist information centre, where the locals themselves give great advice, and, of course, the shops that will make your wallet cry!
But hold on to your cappuccinos, because the real attraction is the architecture! The Tyrolean buildings in San Candido are straight out of a fairy tale – think picturesque houses with pointed roofs, balconies bursting with colourful flowers and more flowers than stars in the Dolomite sky.
It’s Instagram heaven, I tell you!
Unmissable churches in San Candido
Let me let you in on a little secret: the churches of San Candido are absolutely not to be missed on your Dolomite itinerary.
The Collegiata and San Michele are a dynamic duo of divine beauty, but mamma mia, let me talk about the Collegiata for a moment!
This old lady has been turning heads since 1143 (yes, you read that right!). Although it may look a little serious on the outside, just enter and – boom! – you are transported to another world.
The ceiling frescoes?
They will leave you speechless.
And the wooden crucifix?
It is so stunning that it could convert you instantly!
But wait, there’s more!
The Collegiate Church has an ace up its sleeve: a secret crypt that will bring out your inner Indiana Jones.
Trust me, it’s an experience in San Candido you won’t forget!
But buckle up, I am about to tell you a local legend even crazier than my grandmother’s pasta al sugo recipe!
San Candido’s folklore tale
According to folklore tales, the mountains surrounding San Candido were inhabited by giants.
One of these giants, named Haunold, apparently had a soft spot for the villagers. He decided to lend a hand (more like two massive hands) in the construction of the church, lugging around boulders that would make our modern day gym mates weep.
Now, Haunold was not working pro bono.
His daily remuneration?
A calf, a barrel of wine and two stages of beans.
But our giant friend continued to demand his giant meals even after the church was finished.
The villagers, probably tired of their supply of beans, decided they had had enough.
They set a trap and, let’s just say that things did not end well for poor Haunold.
But the story doesn’t end there!
To prove they weren’t just spinning yarn about their giant helper, the villagers kept one of Haunold’s ribs.
And get this: You can even observe it today in the church’s vestibule!
Marvel at San Candido’s Gorgeous Traditional Architecture
Take a peep at the beautiful traditional architecture of San Candido.
I’m not kidding, this place looks like taken right out of a fairytale!
Everywhere you turn, there are cute pastel colored buildings with bright flowerpot filled balconies.
It is as if the entire town woke up one day and decided it was going to ensure that all the structures within the town were perfect for social media.
Pro tip: dares your travel partners to a challenge of who will be the first to identify the most beautiful house.
Loser buys Strauben (typical fried dessert covered with lingonberry jam and icing sugar).
Let’s go Shopping now
The town of San Candido is a shopping paradise particularly for those who are interested in arts and crafts products.
Here wooden carving is a very prominent business and there are numerous shops that sell carved wooden items that would make very attractive house decorations back home.
But wait, there’s more!
The area is famous for its textiles too.
Just think that you can take home the warmest table clothes or the most adorable traditional outfits for the children.
And for all you adventure lovers (Hehe!) you’ll find shops selling the best quality skiing and hiking gears.
Fair warning: San Candido tends to be high-end.
The quality is exceptional, but the prices might make your eyes water a little.
But you’re on holiday, right? You’ve earned something special: treat yourself!
As you’re doing your shopping, keep your eyes peeled for two local gems.
First, you’ll come across the DoloMythos, the fascinating museum of the Dolomites.
And when you think the street couldn’t get any more charming, you’ll stumble upon the elegant Villa Wachtler.
This is no ordinary building: it is the Audrey Hepburn of villas, all grace and timeless beauty.
It is the perfect backdrop for the ‘Oh, I’m casually strolling through this incredibly picturesque Italian town’ photo for your Instagram.
Have Your Dessert Fix at Austrian-Style Bakeries
Now, let’s talk about something close to my heart (and stomach): bakeries!
Oh. My. Goodness.
If there is anything you have to do in San Candido, it’s bringing some lovely Austrian-style bread from one of the bakeries.
Picture this: you’re sitting in a cozy wooden stube, the air filled with the intoxicating aroma of buttery goodness.
Heaven, right?
That’s why, you definitely need to taste the apfel strudel – which is an apple strudel; the lienzer cake is another treat as its name suggests – it is buttery and full of taste.
When the temperatures start rising, you should try some mixed berries and, believe me, do not leave out the whipped cream.
The dairy products here are great, great enough to make you want to hug a cow!
San Candido War Memorial and ossuary
Now, let’s step back in time a bit.
Just outside the town center, you’ll find the San Candido War Memorial and ossuary.
It’s a poignant reminder of the area’s history during World War I.
The memorial is right off the main road leaving town, so it’s super easy to visit. Take a moment here to reflect – it’s these little historical touches that really bring a place to life, don’t you think?
Sliding down the slopes in winter
For all you snow lovers, San Candido is a winter paradise!
The slopes on Mount Baranci are incredibly easy to access straight from the village center – so great for those with kids or those, like myself, who like their ski runs with some hot chocolate.
If you like cross-country skiing, then you’re in luck!
There are 200km of tracks and you will feel like an elegant gazelle running through winter forests (or a clumsy dog which is how I felt).
Embrace Summer Adventures with Hiking Galore
Summer in San Candido is when this place really shines.
Calling all hiking enthusiasts – this is your paradise!
You’ve got easy access to breathtaking trails in Val Fiscalina, Croda Rossa, and Monte Elmo.
And let’s not forget the iconic Three Peaks of Lavaredo – trust me, your Instagram followers will thank you for those shots!
Don’t worry if you’re not up for scaling mountains just yet.
There are trails for every level, from “I climb stairs for fun” to “I’m basically a mountain goat”.
I’ve an article about hiking the Three Peaks of Lavaredo, my favorite hike in the area – check it out here!
Take A family cycling trip to Austria
Bicycle lovers, I have an idea for your next cycling trip!
My favourite outdoor activity when I am in San Candido is to cycle all the way to Austria and back if possible.
Yes, that’s right: let’s cross the borders by bike!
Imagine you are cycling on a beautiful, flat bike path from San Candido to Lienz, Austria.
You are surrounded by magnificent pine forests, the fresh mountain air fills your lungs and you only have to decide how many photos to take.
Sounds like a dream, doesn’t it?
Now, I know what you are thinking.
“Lucy, I’m not exactly cut out for the Tour de France”.
Well, fear not, my friend!
This bike path is smoother than my grandmother’s tiramisu.
It’s perfect for families and for kids too.
You don’t need to be an expert mountain biker: it is an easy and relaxed ride.
Here’s a tip: on the way back you can sit back, rest your legs and take a train ride instead of pedalling all the way.
There are these bike carriages that allow you and your faithful travelling companion to ride back in comfort.
It’s like they read my mind!
Worried about the equipment? Don’t!
You can rent bicycles right here in San Candido.
They will provide you with maps and all the basic equipment you need.
And the best part?
Along the way, there is the fantastic Loacker café Heinfels.
My kids and I always stop there for a sweet.
I mean, you have to fuel up for the trip, right?
It’s practically a must!
San Candido things to do for kids (and parents can join in the fun!)
Family adventurers, listen up, well.
If you were thinking that San Candido was all about tourist attractions, I have good news for you.
This enchanting Tyrolean village has a secret weapon when it comes to family fun: Monte Baranci.
This mountain doesn’t just loom high above San Candido, it’s practically saying ‘Come up here and let’s party’.
Things to to on Monte Baranci (Mount Baranci)
Have you heard about Monte Baranci? Let me tell you:
Funbob descent: ‘Funbob’? Whoever invented that wasn’t kidding.
A total of 1.7 kilometres is the longest railway track in South Tyrol!
The roller coaster had met the bobsleigh and was partying in the mountains.
And the beauty?
It’s not a race that’s just for kids.
It’s also great for mum, dad, and even grandma and grandpa to join in the action. Just don’t scream louder than your children, OK?
Gnome Trail Climbing Park: This is just the adventure park for children but there is no doubt you will want to join in too!
Tibetan bridges to be crossed and ropes to be climbed.
I am sure family photos will be priceless, and remembering the time when we all pretended to be monkeys in the Alps!
The gnome village: It gets super cute here.
Think of these nine little cabins built right into the forest, all made of organic materials.
This is like something from a fairy tale, but big bad wolf will be replaced by a friendly gnome (though I don’t think they really exist, but you can play a role and let your imagination run.)
These are the perfect place for your children’s imaginative and creative play and give them the magical forest experience they will never forget.
Here’s a tip: start the day early.
I promise after your children have a taste of these activities, they don’t want to go. You can have as many ‘five more minutes’ moments as you can imagine.
And, parents, don’t forget that all this running around and excitement means one thing: a nice quiet evening in your hotel. You are welcome!
Easy hikes around San Candido (because who doesn’t love hiking?)
The time has come to tell you about one of the things I loved most about San Candido: the trails!
I mean, there really is a trail for every type of hiker, from the hiking fanatics to those who only do it if there is a treat at the end!
Now, most of these trails require a car to reach the starting points.
But don’t worry, they are all suitable for day hikes.
So pack a picnic (don’t forget the local cheese!), lace up your boots and hit the trails!
Here are some of my top choices:
Chairlift on Monte Baranci: if you fancy a breathtaking view but can’t face a steep hike, this is the solution for you!
It’s like a panoramic lift from Mother Nature.
Valle Campo di Dentro: Do you have children in tow?
This beautiful walk to the Rifugio (lodge) Tre Scarperi is perfect for little explorers.
Hiking on Monte Elmo: My favourites are the paths to Rifugio Larici, Alpe di Nemes and Malga Klambach.
And if you have children, the Olperl Park is definitely worth a visit!
Val Fiscalina: Start with a relaxing walk in the forest, then, if you are feeling adventurous, climb to Rifugio Comici, Carducci, Pian di Cengia or Locatelli. Caution: the latter are for the more energetic (moderate to strenuous).
Croda Rossa: take a chairlift ride or work your buttocks off with a moderate hike from Val Fiscalina.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo: the rock star of the Dolomites.
Trust me, your camera will thank you.
Lake Misurina: Your slice of alpine paradise just a stone’s throw from San Candido.
It’s is famous for its alpine microclimate.
The air around this lake is so fresh and clean, it’s known to be a natural remedy for asthma.
Lago di Dobbiaco (Lake Toblach): Perfect for those who want to take a walk along the lake shore with a bit of rowing.
Lake Braies: Also known as the “Pearl of the Dolomites”, Lake Braies is one of the most enchanting spots to visit near San Candido.
Perfect for pictures, it’s as if Mother Nature went to great lengths to create the landscape.
Where to stay in San Candido
After all this hiking you will need a comfortable place to stay and I am here to help you.
In San Candido there are different types of accommodation to suit different types of travellers.
Here are some of my favourites:
Boutique & Gourmet Hotel Orso Grigio: This is where I parked my suitcase for our weekends, and let me tell you, it was harder to leave than it is to resist a second gelato on a hot day.
It’s located in Piazza San Michele, you literally step out the door and you’re in the heart of San Candido.
Park Hotel Sole Paradiso: Right at the entrance to town, surrounded by beautiful trees.
It’s like sleeping among the trees in a magnificent forest, but with a little extra comfort!
Zin Senfter Residence: is in a very central location, convenient for getting around on foot.
The spacious, well-maintained apartments offer every comfort and feature lovely balconies with beautiful mountain views.
The breakfast is really varied and plentiful.
Innerkofler Mountain Home Apartments: conveniently located within walking distance of the town center and very close to the ski lifts.
The views from the windows, overlooking the ski slopes and snow-capped peaks, are stunning.
And this is it, your quick guide to San Candido.
I hope it helps you plan your perfect mountain getaway.
As you should know by now, the best adventures are those where you go a little off the beaten track (but not quite – always make sure you have a map).
I wish you a safe journey and may your roads bring many beautiful landscapes and even more tasty treats!
If you are planning a trip to Italy or are interested in visiting other cities and towns in the Italian Dolomites, here’s a list of my articles on the subject:
How to plan a trip to Italy – 15 essential tips
How to Hike the Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop: best day hikes in the Dolomites & insider tips
Ciao and Happy travels!