This sun-baked slice of Southern Italy has been luring more and more travelers lately, and you’ll see why.
It’s really hard to resist the place with these cone-roofed trulli houses, vast olive groves all around and coastlines that can make a mermaid turn green with envy, right?
However, the reality is that Puglia was unknown to tourists until just lately, probably within the last 15 years or so.
Yes, my husband’s native land had its own loyal following, but it was not necessarily crowded with foreigners.
Today, however, the secret is completely out and known to the world; every year more people recognise how fascinating and attractive Puglia is than the year before.
This is awesome in many ways, better amenities and more English spoken.
However, there are some changes that this previously hidden destination in Italy has to make due to this fact.
Places like Tuscany or Venice have had centuries to get used to hordes of tourists.
Poor little Puglia? Not so much.
While it is brilliant to add it to your itinerary, know that travelling here can be a sometimes bizarre experience!
Hence the reason for this short and handy Puglia travel guide containing fourteen must-know facts about Puglia before you even set foot on the plane.
Since I am a local’s wife, I’ll tell you what you won’t find in any guidebook – everything from what’s good about this place to things that might surprise you.
I’m dishing it all, filter-free, to give you the real deal on exploring this slice of la bella vita.
We’ll cover practical pointers, fascinating insights, and everything in between.
Brace yourself for some truth bombs…but also plenty of reasons why you’ll fall head-over-feet for Puglia!
Puglia travel guide: Things to know before you go
1. Where Is Puglia Region?
Puglia is located in the extreme south-eastern corner of the Italian boot, that part of the ‘heel’ that juts out into the Mediterranean.
Kilometres away from the famous cities of the north, where everyone flocks.
Here you are in the Mezzogiorno, as the Italians call southern Italy below Rome.
And let me tell you, this part of the country has a very special atmosphere.
Over the past two centuries, Apulia has defined itself differently because of its isolated geography and turbulent history.
We are talking about ancient Greek settlements that originally dotted this coastline.
Then came the Normans, the Swabians, the Lombards: basically, all the Toms, Dicks and Conquistadors who tried to plant their flag at some point.
There was also that long period when Puglia answered to the distant Kingdom of the Two Sicilies under the Spanish rule of the Aragonese.
Can you imagine that?
Governors hitting you with policies from the other side of the boot!
Needless to say, after being pulled this way and that by different cultures for millennia, Puglia has developed a fascinating and unique spirit all its own.
They have remained faithful and devoted to their proud local roots, while absorbing ideas like sponges.
Sure, the famous cities of the north can have all the glory.
But the Apulians?
They know that their humble corner is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered.
2. Don’t be fooled – Puglia’s one long stretch!
I see it all the time – fresh-faced visitors rolling into Puglia with grand plans to zip around the whole region lickety-split.
Maybe squeeze it all into a couple of whirlwind days before moving on.
Oh you sweet summer children…
Let me break it to you gently: Puglia may look modest on a map, but this long, lean peninsula is way more sprawling than it seems.
Thinking you can breezy through the whole shebang in record time?
Yeah…you might want to revise those overambitious itineraries.
With two entire coastlines to contend with, you’re in for quite the journey!
See, as a peninsula, Puglia unfurls along both the Adriatic to the east and the Ionian to the southwest.
That eastern Adriatic stretch alone runs an epic 5+ hour haul from the northern Gargano all the way down to the Santa Maria di Leuca tip.
Legendary beach towns like Vieste, Polignano a Mare, and Otranto are just a few highlights dotting that craggy eastern coast.
Then you’ve got the Ionian side kicking off at that same southern point, hugging the region’s western edge up to Taranto.
With stunners like Gallipoli and Porto Cesareo to swoon over, it’s a whole other chunk of seaside paradise to explore.
Don’t underestimate the time spent driving or distances involved in planning an adventure in Puglia.
Sure, it seems bite-sized at first glance.
But with all that glorious coastline scenery to drink in?
You’re gonna need to pace yourself and embrace the journey!
3. There are two airports to get to Puglia
If you are going to Puglia in Italy, you can either use the Karol Wojtyla Airport located in Bari, Northern Puglia, or land at the Papola Casale airport, also known as Salento Airport, in Brindisi, the southern part of Puglia.
Don’t worry, they’re just an hour apart – so no wrong choices here!
The main thing to consider is where you’ll be planting your home base during that Pugliese vacay.
If you’re southeastern Salento-bound, having Brindisi as your entry and exit point makes life easier.
On the other hand, if you’re sticking to the northern parts like Bari and Gargano will likely prefer flying in and out of…you guessed it…Bari!
But let’s say you’re whipping all over Puglia’s map with Ostuni or another central town as your hub.
In that case, either airport’s fair game since you’ll be driving around regardless.
Just breathe a sigh of relief that you don’t have to schlep too far from whichever runway you land on.
The moral of the story?
Do a little strategic planning with your home base in mind, but don’t lose too much sleep stressing over it.
Whichever way you slice it, Puglia’s double airport situation makes getting here a relatively pain-free process.
4. Getting to Puglia by train
Not feeling that whole airplane situation?
No problems – you can definitely rail it down to Puglia instead.
Though fair warning, it’ll be a bit of a scenic route!
If trains are your preferred mode of transporting yourself to these shores, you’ve got some decent high-speed options connecting from Rome and Naples.
The Frecciargento routes chug all the way down to both Bari and Brindisi, which is handy.
But let’s be real – Bari’s your best bet for arrivals.
Not only is it a slightly quicker trip, but any train headed to Brindisi has to make that Bari pit stop first anyway.
Plus, you’ll be boarding the Frecciargento which is slower than Frecciarossa fastest train, so you’ll have a solid 4 hour rail time from Rome or Naples.
Now, what about coming from elsewhere in Italy?
Well…let’s just say your connections aren’t going to be quite as smooth.
Heading to Puglia from Milan, Florence, Venice and the like means changing trains like you’re working a very sweaty second job.
Definitely something to factor in!
The bottom line is that the railways will indeed get you here from other parts of Italy, no dramas. Just don’t expect the fastest, most seamless trip of your life.
5. Moving around: The Public Transit isn’t effective
Time for a real talk about getting around Puglia without a car.
I’ll be blunt – the public transportation situation here isn’t exactly la dolce vita.
Compared to other Italian destinations, it’s a bit of a hot mess express.
Don’t get me wrong, there are some decent train connections between Bari and the surrounding towns that make up that metro area.
Same goes for zipping between Bari and Brindisi – that particular route is pretty straightforward.
But once you venture outside of Bari’s sphere of influence?
That’s where things get a little…let’s say…sporadic.
Train service either becomes extremely limited and infrequent or just doesn’t exist at all in many cases.
Not ideal when you’re trying to hop between Puglia’s gems!
Yeah, you’ll find basic bus systems operating in hotspots like Salento, the Gargano, and Valle d’Itria.
But even then, they really just connect the towns and cities – don’t expect convenient transportation into rural areas or down to the beach clubs.
Basically, be mentally prepared for slow journeys, random transfers, and plenty of strategic planning if you want to go car-free here.
It’s doable with some patience and transit mastery, but hardly the most fluid experience.
My two cents?
If cruising around at your own pace is a priority, you may want to consider renting some wheels for at least part of your Pugliese adventure.
6. You should rent a car!
Well, enough said – in order to visit the wonders of Puglia you will have to rent a car.
Indeed, I have already told you about the difficulties with public transport, but let me tell you again.
This region is made for road tripping.
Between the sprawling distances, the charm of the countryside and the beautiful coastal roads that will make you drool, a car will allow you to follow your own pace and savour everything.
It’s about driving along epic seaside stretches, like the SP358 that hugs the cliffs between Otranto and Leuca in Salento.
Or riding the impressive rollercoaster of the SP52 and SP53 in the Gargano, between Peschici and Vieste.
Just getting on a train is not enough to savour these experiences, believe me.
Moreover, much of the magic of Puglia is hidden in the rural areas.
How can you stumble upon the masseria (farm-stay) of your dreams or the secret cove on the beach without having a car to follow your tracks?
It’s another level of freedom and adventure that public transport cannot offer.
Now, I get it: not everyone is keen on getting behind the wheel on holiday.
But the simple reality is that having your own four-wheeled opens up many more possibilities.
My advice? Consider to rent a car to visit more secluded places and taking trains between bigger cities.
Puglia’s charms are best experienced at a leisurely pace off the main drags – and you’ll want all the flexibility to make that happen.
7. 4 Musts to add to Your Puglia Itinerary
By now, I’ve likely convinced you that Puglia is one sprawling, spread-out kinda place.
But no need to panic about cramming every nook and cranny into your vacay!
For first-timers, there are really four main highlights that deserve top billing.
First up, we’ve got the Gargano peninsula way up north.
This forested, coastal stretch is prime territory for lazy beach days, getting those steps in on scenic hikes, or trying your hand at all the quintessential water sports.
It’s such a beloved summer escape that you’ll spot German and Austrian camper vans galore come high season.
Then you’ve got the Salento peninsula down at Puglia’s southern tip.
Arid, sun-baked, and chock-full of that rustic, ye olde Mediterranean charm – this is where you’ll find postcard-perfect seaside towns like Lecce, Otranto, Gallipoli, and that famous Santa Maria di Leuca lighthouse.
Quintessential is an understatement!
Of course, no Puglia trip would be complete without a stop in the province surrounding the region’s capital, Bari.
This “Terra di Bari” area is studded with under-the-radar urban gems like Trani, Bitonto, and Giovinazzo that are just dripping with Old World character.
Finally and most interestingly, Itria Valley is the rural, inner part of Puglia.
It is characterized by grape vines, olive trees growing here and there, and small towns with tiny white houses, called trulli, in some parts, such as Alberobello, Ostuni or Locorotondo.
It would take you a minimum of 14 days to visit all of these places unless you want to concentrate on only a couple depending on your taste in travels instead of wasting time here and there.
8. Where to find the best beaches in Puglia
Let’s talk about one of Puglia’s greatest attractions: the beaches!
If you want to get your toes wet, you should concentrate your coastal efforts in two main areas: the Gargano in the north and the Salento in the south.
In the Gargano there are photogenic seaside towns such as Vieste and Peschici, which offer steep bays and turquoise waters.
Not to mention the possibility of reaching the dreamy archipelago of the Tremiti Islands by ferry.
There is certainly world-class beach material here.
But then there is the Salento peninsula, which ups Puglia’s maritime appeal about ten notches.
These are pristine stretches of sand surrounding amazing beaches such as Gallipoli and northern Otranto.
The water here is pure fuel fantastic blue/electric green.
In fact, if I am completely honest, the Salento may surpass the Gargano in terms of the fantasy of the perfect beach.
Those colours and dramatic rock formations? A chef’s kiss!
Regardless of where you go to the beach, however, there is one little quirk you need to be aware of: the infamous lido situation.
In practice, huge portions of coastline have been demarcated by private establishments and beach clubs with typical rows of sunbeds and umbrellas.
Now, it’s not all bad: these lidi can be a vibe if you embrace the glamorous energy of the day clubs (and don’t mind paying).
Moreover, technically it is still possible to swim and access a small stretch of sand anywhere along the coast.
But, truth be told, all this development makes the magic of the Apulian seaside town somewhat more difficult.
The best thing is to ask around which are the best free and public beaches to patrol.
9. Base Yourself wisely: Embrace The Multi-Town Approach
I have already reiterated the notion that Puglia is a very large region and worthy of a road trip.
But let me once again instil this point into your holiday planners’ minds: do NOT try to approach it all from a single base!
I can already hear the cries of disappointment. “But this adds so much hassle to our itinerary!”. Yeah, and you know what’s even more annoying?
Spending every minute of your hard-earned Italian adventure behind the wheel, watching the charms of Puglia whizz by through the car window.
Instead of this nightmarish drudgery, try to strategically arrange a couple of separate home-bases during your trip.
This way you will not only greatly reduce your driving time, but also be able to absorb the unique vibe of each place you are exploring.
For example, if you want to visit the gems of the Apulian hinterland, such as the beautiful Martina Franca and Locorotondo in the Itria Valley, you would do well to camp around Ostuni as a starting point.
A really convenient base, but still perfectly situated for day trips.
Or let’s say your priority is Salento, the sunny heel brimming with coastal beauties such as Otranto, Gallipoli and Leuca.
In this case, a multi-night stay in Lecce (or any of these seaside towns) makes all the sense in the world to make a base.
The point is that you have the option of splitting your accommodation in order to maximise your time and minimise unnecessary driving.
And believe me, exploring this region with fresher legs and less fatigue is a real game changer!
So be the kind of traveller who really experiences your destination, not just ticking boxes out of the car window.
Let the allure of Puglia slowly unfold on several bases.
You will thank me later!
10. Shoulder Season is Your BFF
Okay, I’m going to let you in on a little insider secret about the prime time to visit these parts.
You know those sweltering summer months when all of Italy gets overrun with visitors?
When prices skyrocket, crowds swell, and a cold bottled water costs as much as your first-born?
Yeah…let’s all agree to avoid that Puglia experience like una febbre maltese, shall we?
No, for maximum enjoyment and minimum aggravation, you’ll want to hit up Puglia during those gloriously crowd-free shoulder seasons instead.
I’m talking late spring or early fall when the weather is still deliciously warm but the tourist hordes have retreated.
Come mid-to-late May, you’re usually looking at sunshine and temperatures perfect for getting your toes sandy.
Better yet, everything’s open for business but you’ll practically have stretches of beach all to yourself.
Serious win!
Then you’ve got that idyllic window from mid-September through October when summertime properly exits and Puglia enters a sublime sweet spot.
The scorching heat breaks, those pesky crowds vanish…yet you can still soak up al fresco living with a crisp glass of negroamaro in hand.
Bliss.
Essentially, you get to enjoy all the perks of high season minus the peak pricing and chaotic mobs.
That’s what we call an Italian cultural experience done right!
Now, I’m not saying visiting in July or August is automatically a midsummer night’s nightmare or anything.
But between the swampy heat and having to wrestle for your spot on the beach?
You’ve been warned – Puglia in piena estate is not for the faint of heart!
11. English is not very common
Let’s make one thing clear right away: in Apulia you can absolutely get by without speaking a word of Italian.
English has made quite a breakthrough in these parts, especially in the bigger cities.
Phew!
That said, don’t expect people to speak English fluently everywhere you go.
If you venture into the small towns and rural areas of Puglia, you are very likely to encounter residents who speak at best a little of the Queen’s language.
“I don’t speak English” could be their entire English vocabulary!
But the point is that a little cultural immersion never hurts anyone, right?
The Apulians are a friendly and welcoming bunch who will come at you with creative mimicry if necessary.
You might want to keep your Google Translate app warm just in case, but I guarantee you will get by just fine.
Even just trying to learn a few basic Italian phrases and pleasantries is child’s play in these provincial situations.
Not only will it make you more sympathetic to the locals, but it may also open the doors of that fantastic family restaurant that sweet Nonna is crazy about.
The important thing is to make a little effort!
12. Puglia is not a budget destination
Okay, let’s address the elephant in the room – that persistent rumor that Puglia is some mythical cheap paradise where your hard-earned dollars will stretch endlessly.
Was that maybe true once upon a time circa…oh, let’s say 15 years ago?
Perhaps!
But in today’s world, this region has officially outgrown its bargain basement reputation.
Don’t get me wrong, Puglia is still quite reasonably priced compared to those famous marquee destinations up north.
You won’t be shelling out Amalfi Coast or Tuscan levels of sticker shock here thank goodness.
But those dreamy visions of pinching pennies at every turn?
You might want to recalibrate slightly.
The simple fact is, as more and more travelers have wised up to Puglia’s charms over the past decade, prices have steadily risen to match the demand.
Accommodation, meals, activities – you can expect a holiday budget on par with most other mid-range Italian hotspots these days.
All is not lost though!
There’s a secret weapon for experiencing Puglia on a primo discount: that magical shoulder season I keep harping about.
Come in late spring or early fall, and you’ll score some excellent deals as prices dip back down.
But for those peak summer months when wanderlusters descend en masse?
Let’s just say you’ll likely need to dial up the budget…or get comfortable with an agriturismo glamping situation.
13. Food in Puglia is delicious
Prepare your taste buds, the food here is frankly out of this world.
And I say this not only as the proud wife of a local, perhaps with a slight bias!
Puglia was once considered the granary of Italy, all those beautiful fields of golden wheat stretching as far as the eye could see?
They were not just for beauty.
We are talking about the source of that deliciously nutty durum wheat that makes their pasta among the best in the business.
And let’s not even mention the fresh, seasonal produce.
Apulian cuisine is all about making these simple, high-quality ingredients sing without too much fuss.
We are talking about light and lively starters, full of freshly picked vegetables.
A rainbow of semi-mature cheeses, with no industrial stuff in sight.
Or how about a taste of those famous cured meats that would make your grandmother weep with joy?
Then there is carbohydrate heaven with their iconic orecchiette: those cheeky little ‘ears’ are a point of regional pride in those parts.
Whether topped with a bright tomato sauce, earthy rapini or nuggets of your favourite seafood, a hot plate of these orecchiette is a real soul food.
The point is that Apulia operates on a completely different level when it comes to celebrating Italy’s culinary richness.
It is an endless parade of simple yet sublime flavours that will make you dream of moving here permanently.
Or, at the very least, to buy more elastic trousers for your suitcase!
14. Trulli aren’t only found in Alberobello
Well, let’s take a moment to talk about those iconic cone-roofed constructions you’ve probably seen in all the Puglia advertisements.
We are talking about the trulli, of course, those distinctive limestone dwellings topped by those adorably squat grey cones.
Alberobello is perhaps the capital of trulli and enjoys all the fame and glory.
But let me let you in on an insider secret: you will find these extravagant traditional dwellings all over the Itria Valley region.
From Locorotondo to Cisternino, it’s a veritable trullo-palace!
The real question is: how can you do better than admire these archaeological relics from the outside?
By staying in one of them for your stay, of course!
Don’t act so surprised – plenty of these trulli structures have been lovingly converted into guesthouses, B&Bs, and straight-up luxury digs for the discerning traveler.
Imagine waking up surrounded by those thick limestone walls and iconic conical roofs every morning.
It is an experience that cannot be replicated anywhere else.
A particularly popular renovated trullo village is Borgo Canonica, just outside Cisternino.
Set among olive groves and vineyards, it is a fantasy of romantic agriturismo come to life.
Another incredible spot in Cisternino is Trulli 18cinquantanove, nestled away among the olive groves and vineyards.
You’ll be welcomed with open arms and a warm smile by the lovely hostess Chiara, who’ll make you feel right at home from the moment you arrive.
It’s made up of 4 cute little apartments, each with their own private entrance.
But get this – they’ve been lovingly restored to keep all the original trulli character and soul intact.
Then there’s Trulli Beresheet which takes luxury trulli living to another level.
This exclusive property near Ostuni has incredible plush interiors harmoniously blending with the simple natural surroundings.
Your trulli room will have every comfort you can imagine.
Outside, you’ve got a massive 20-meter pool surrounded by centuries-old olive groves – such an idyllic setting!
And it’s perfectly located to explore top spots like the Torre Guaceto Nature Reserve, Savelletri, Fasano and Salento’s beautiful beaches.
You can even rent cars and bikes to get around easily.
If you’re looking for one of the most beautiful trulli resorts with a pool in all of Puglia, this is it!
You will never see boring hotels the same way again!
The Insider Scoop Continues…
And there you have it, the no-nonsense guide for exploring Puglia like a local expert!
From finding the best accommodation to discovering hidden coves, I’ve given you all my tips for making this region your personal playground.
But don’t stop here!
The insider knowledge has only just begun.
To discover more Puglia gems (and travel information about Italy in general), be sure to follow me on socials.
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Before you know it, you’ll be planning your future adventures like a pro!
And for those who really want to take their immersion in Italian to another level?
My online course in “Conversational Italian for Travel“ is just the thing for you.
Some key phrases are useful, but imagine being able to converse properly with locals, from jokes at the market to chatting with grandmothers like a true professional.
This is the ultimate key to authentic experiences.
The point is that getting to know Puglia is only the first step.
After this intensive course, you will be well equipped to start discovering all the hidden corners of beautiful Italy.
Whether through my inbox, social feed or virtual classroom, I am always just a click away with the next golden nugget of travel!
Ciao and happy travel!
